Chengdu & Chongqing 8 Days · A Journey of Ethnicity and Culture

Standing among enormous natural stone arches with a sky ringed by mountains overhead and a valley stream underfoot. Three arches link layer upon layer, a magnificent sinkhole gorge formed by hundreds of millions of years of geological movement. Beside them a cliff observation lift rises vertically against the sheer rock face. Walking the valley floor you take in the full karst spectacle and, amid the sweeping gorge, feel nature's handiwork up close — and frame a canyon photograph that is yours.

Arriving at Xiannv Mountain, the view opens up at once. Walk the alpine grassland past rolling hills, ride the little train through it and leave the noise of the city behind for a rare stretch of ease. The high plateau meadow opens wide, distant hills and stands of forest catching the light. Ride the little train through it, or walk and photograph on the grassland, putting the city's clamour aside for a genuinely restful time.

As night falls Chiyou Jiuli City blazes with light, its Miao stilt buildings climbing the hillside in tiers while golden-roofed pavilions gleam among the forest, as if you have stumbled into a thousand-year-old Miao village. Change into splendid Miao dress and join the lively long-table banquet as silver-adorned Miao girls offer the ceremonial gate wine. Raise a glass to cheerful singing and take in Miao folk custom and the warmth of an authentic Miao village.

Sit by the Wujiang and watch green hills stretch away with the current, mountain, water and gorge forming a natural painting. You can also board a Wujiang Gallery cruise for the curious experience of travelling inside a painting — no deliberate commotion along the way, just a quiet enjoyment from the boat of the calmest side of Chongqing's landscape.

As night falls the lights of Hongya Cave come on gradually, tier upon tier of stilt houses built along the hillside. Looking back from the riverside you find that Chongqing really is a three-dimensional urban labyrinth, and it is no wonder first-time visitors are so struck by it. After dark, tier upon tier of stilt houses light up in warm yellow along the hill, interweaving with the outline of Qiansimen Bridge and the glitter on the water. Looking back from the river bank, the city really is a vertical maze.

Follow the old lanes on foot past slopes, stone steps and traditional buildings to see Chongqing's most genuine everyday face. Bluestone steps wind upward, old trees shade the lanes, old shops stand in irregular rows and red lanterns accent the antique archways. Wander at leisure with no need to hurry, taking in old Chongqing's everyday warmth and catching the tenderness and nostalgia unique to the Mountain City.

At People's Park, find a teahouse and sit down with a bowl of gaiwan tea, watching locals chat, play chess and relax. There is no hurried itinerary here, only the leisurely rhythm that belongs to Chengdu — and it is the most comfortable way to get to know the city. Find an old teahouse, take a bowl of gaiwan tea and a bamboo chair, and watch locals chat, have their ears cleaned and play chess for an afternoon.

Standing before the Dujiangyan irrigation works, you marvel at the ingenuity of the ancients. Built more than two thousand years ago, the system still functions today; walking along the water you enjoy the natural scenery and learn how ancient Chinese worked with nature. The Fish Mouth, Flying Sand Weir and Bottle-Neck Channel still do their job. Every step along the river is both scenery and a lesson in that ancient wisdom.

The high point of a visit to Panda Valley is of course finding the giant pandas. Watching them leisurely eat bamboo, climb trees and rest, you feel the charm of these national treasures up close and the trip to Chengdu gains a particularly memorable moment. The grounds sit close to a natural habitat, making the encounter more genuine than viewing through glass, and leaving the whole Chengdu trip with a particularly soft memory.