A full North Xinjiang loop that strings together the Tianshan Mountains, desert, forest, grassland, lakes, yardang landforms and starry skies — starting in Urumqi, heading north then west, gathering the gentleness of Altay and the blue of Sayram Lake into one journey.
Land in Urumqi and be met by a private car. First comes Tianchi Lake, a high mountain lake cradled beneath the snows of Bogda Peak; then the S21 Desert Highway across the Junggar Basin and the Gurbantunggut Desert, with gobi and dunes running to the horizon, arriving at Beitun in the evening. From there the Ahe Highway (when open) crosses the Wuxilike Tongba forest and the vast Tuolehaite grassland into Hemu. Take a slow, unhurried photo walk in Hemu, stroll the wooden bridge and look up at a sky thick with stars. At dawn the morning mist and cooking smoke of Hemu wrap around the wooden roofs; then comes Kanas, where Wolong Bay, Moon Bay and Shenxian Bay unfold one after another between snow peaks and forest like three emerald ribbons. Overnight in Burqin, a small, quiet fairytale border town.
Continuing south, walk into the World Devil City and ride the little train through its yardang landforms, where wind-carved rock stands up from the gobi like castles and beasts. Along the way you pass the Hundred-Mile Oilfield, its pumpjacks nodding over the desert. Then on to Kuitun or Dushanzi, leaving ample time for Sayram Lake. Drive the full 360-degree loop past the red lighthouse, Kele Yongzhu, Xihai Grassland, S Bay and Songshutou — the water works through every shade of blue, the last tear of the Atlantic caught between the Tianshan ranges. Then a blue-hour afternoon tea by the lake, watching the sun turn the surface from orange to deep indigo. The next morning re-enter Sayram for Moon Bay at first light, then back to Urumqi. On the final day a private transfer to the airport carries you home with the snow of Tianchi, the stars of Hemu, the bays of Kanas and the blue of Sayram.
01
Blue-Hour Afternoon Tea at Sayram Lake
A blue-hour afternoon tea is set up beside Sayram Lake. Sit by the water as the setting sun stains the surface orange, then slowly turns it deep indigo. Tea, a hot drink, the lake wind and snow peaks — the whole of Sayram seems to have been muted. It is the most romantic and most relaxed moment of the North Xinjiang loop, and the golden hour for photographs.
02
Tianchi Lake — A High-Mountain Jade Beneath Bogda Peak
Tianchi is the classic opening of any North Xinjiang loop. The water is clear as a mirror, the snows of Bogda Peak reflected in it, spruce all around and the air sharp and cold. No hard hiking required — standing at the shore is enough to feel the presence of the Tianshan. In the soft light of early morning or late afternoon the lake becomes a single enormous jade, and every casual shot looks like a wallpaper.
03
World Devil City — A Little Train Through the Yardang
Ride the little train through the World Devil City and watch wind-eroded rock rise from the gobi like castles, like beasts, like a fleet standing out of the desert floor. At sunset the layers burn gold and red — vast and uncanny. Films such as Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon and Seven Swords were shot here; walking in feels like landing on another planet.
04
Hemu by Night and Dawn — A Galaxy Above, Woodsmoke Below
Stay a night in Hemu and look up: the sky is thick with stars and the Milky Way arches across it like a band of light. At dawn the morning mist and cooking smoke tangle above the wooden roofs, the first sun clears the ridge and washes the snow village pale gold. The whole village is as quiet as a fairytale — the most healing morning and evening in North Xinjiang.
05
The Three Bays of Kanas
Step into Kanas and Wolong Bay, Moon Bay and Shenxian Bay unfold one after another between snow peaks and forest. The water winds through the valley like an emerald ribbon, morning mist, reflections, spruce and green water all in one frame — every step is a classic viewpoint. This is the natural scroll of North Xinjiang you cannot miss, and for countless travellers the very cover image of Xinjiang.